Cosmetology

 

Derived from greek word which means (skilled in adornment)

is the study and application of beauty treatment. Branches of specialty including hairstyling, skin care, cosmetics, manicures/pedicures, and electrology

 

 

Basic Makeup Items Every Woman Should Have

Start with the basics: basic makeup items, that is! You may think that carrying all the makeup tools of the trade is a necessity, but that can weigh you down - literally. By condensing your makeup bag to include only basic makeup items - foundation, eye shadow color, lip color and blush – you can look your best all the time without lugging a ton of makeup products around.

Basic Makeup Item #1: Foundation

One of the most important basic makeup items you can own is foundation. When deciding on a foundation, first ask yourself what type of coverage you need. During the summer, a lightweight foundation like Translucent Veil works best. This foundation does not clog pores and offers light coverage over skin. During colder months, try a foundation with more protection, like the Cream-to-Powder Foundation, which is infused with Meadowfoam Seed Oil, a rich emollient that replenishes skin with vital moisture. Also, remember to choose a foundation that matches your skin tone.

Basic Makeup Item #2: Eye Shadow Color

Draw attention to your most prominent feature, your eyes, with a complimentary eye shadow color. When selecting this basic makeup item, remember that neutral colors like grays and browns work well with any eye color.

  • Women with lighter eye colors should try soft pinks or peach-colored eye shadows.

  • Women with darker eye colors should try greens or plum shades.

If you like having a whole array of colors to choose from, try the Eye Shadow Cream Color Mix Mini Compact, which comes complete with 10 different eye shadow colors. It's also the size of a credit card, and won't weight you down.

Basic Makeup Item #3: Lip Color

The right lip color can enhance any pair of lips. This basic makeup item can come in lipstick or lip gloss form and is always an important item to have on hand. Dark complexions look best with equally deep shades like plum, wine and berry. If you have a lighter skin tone, try apricots, soft pinks and rose lip colors.

Basic Makeup Item #3: Blush

When selecting a blush color for your cheeks, remember: your blush should look as natural as possible. Sometimes it is helpful if your blush color matches you lip color. If you have a darker skin tone, choose a  burgundy or wine blush color; those with lighter skin tones may want to try pink blushes to enhance the skin. Read more about choosing the right blush color.

 

PREPARATION OF COSMETICS:

 

FORMULATIONS BASICS: FACIAL CREAM

 

Facial care creams formulations include many kinds of formulations, depending on the nature of the skin or on the desired effects. Either protection against pollution and oxidation is needed or anti-wrinkle activity. Actives may also be added in order to correct an oily/ greasy skin, a dry or a sensitive skin.. Many formulations are basically Oil in Water emulsions or Water in Oil emulsions. The typical skin care emulsion is now more likely to be o/w than w/o. Technology has advanced to the point where w/o stable emulsions can be prepared at room temperature.

Required qualities :

  • Neutral or pleasant odor and color

  • Easy to spread, pleasant feeling during application

  • Easy penetration

  • Non-oily/ non-greasy after application

  • Non comedogenic

  • Well tolerance/ non-allergenic

  • Bring hydration

 

 Typical Ingredients

 

 Usual Method

Must Use

 

Emulsifiers

2-6%

Emollients

10-35 %

Thickener

0.1-1%

Deionized Water

Q.S.


Usual

 

Preservatives

0.2-1 %

Humectants

1-8 %

Consistency factors

1-6%

Antioxidants

0.01-0.05%

UV filters

0.01-0.5%


Optional

 

Chelating Agents

0-0.02 %

Fragrance

0.1-1 %

Active agents

0.1-2%

Colouring agents

Q.S.

Aesthetic enhancers

0.1-5%

Aqueous phase: Thickener is dispersed in cold or warm water at 75-80°C (depending on the recommandations of the producer) under intensive stirring, until a homogeneous gel is formed. This first phase is combined with the oily phase (Lipophilic components : emulsifiers + emollients + consistency factors) that has also been melted and heated to the same temperature. Mix under intensive stirring until emulsion is formed. Then mix gently while emulsion is being cooled. Sensitive components like actives, special additives and preservatives are added after the mixture has been cooled (40-30°C) to keep their properties intact.

 

 

Tips

How to vary the consistency of your cream?

- Changing the % of the oily phase allows variations in the final viscosity of your preparation. For Oil in Water emulsion the greater the oily phase the higher the viscosity. Inversely for Water in Oil or Water in Silicone emulsion : the greater the aqueous phase the higher the viscosity.

- Vary the % of thickeners (gelling agents or consistency agents like waxes). However some stabilizers can prevent settling without increasing the viscosity.

 

 

Sample Recipe : "Vanishing cream"

Ingredients

Method

Composition

Function

% (w/w)


Phase A

Glyceryl stearate

Emulsifier/ consistency agent

4.00

Stearic acid

Emulsifier/ consistency agent

16.0

Ceteareth-12

Emulsifier

3.00

Octyldodecanol

Emollient

3.00

 

Phase A  and phase B have to be mixed and heated separately to 80°C. Add slowly B into A under intensive stirring until the emulsion is formed. Then add more quickly the rest of the phase and keep stirring during a few minutes. Continue stirring gently until the temperature is at 40°C. Then Add phase C. Keep stirring the mixture slowly while it is being cooled.

Properties:

Cream with a pearlescent aspect

 

 

 

FOUNDATION MAKEUP FORMULATION

 

FoundationsbareMinerals SPF 15 Foundation are coloring preparations used to enhance the aspect of the skin by giving uniformity to the complexion and concealing blemishes. The origin of face makeup appears with the Egyptians 4000 BC: Women applied on their faces a paste composed of beeswax or sheet's fat added with minerals .
Foundation formulation is quite complex. Typically, it is an emulsion to which various pigments and powders have been added. The choice is also limited to a few types of permitted pigments and dyes.

Required qualities:

  • Easy to spread

  • Homogeneous

  • Well adhesion to the skin

  • Covering power

  • Permeable film to allow gas exchanges

  • Non-irritant, non-allergenic

  • Non-shiny, non-greasy

  • Non comedogenic

  • Pleasant or neutral odor

  • Pleasant texture, creaminess

 

 Typical Ingredients

 

 Usual Method

Must Use

 

Emulsifiers

1-6 %

Emollients

8-20 %

Thickener (s)

0,1-2 %

Humectants

4-7%

Pigments (opacifiying & coloring)

2-10 %

Powders

4-10 %

Deionized Water

Q.S.


Usual

 

Preservatives

0,1-1 %

Antioxidants

0,01-0,05 %

Consistency agents

0,5-20 %

Chelating Agents

0-0,02 %


Optional

 

Perfume

0,5-1 %

Active agents

0,1-1%

Disperse hydrophilic thickener(s) into warm water under intensive stirring until a homogeneous gel is formed. Add other hydrophilic components. Heat this phase to 80°C. Pulverize pigments and powders and add them to the water phase under intensive stirring. Emulsifiers, emollients & lipophilic consistency factors, constituting the oily phase, are mixed and heated to 80°C. This third phase is added to the mixture (water phase + pigments) in order to form the emulsion. Sensitive components like actives, special additives and preservatives are added after the mixture has been cooled (40-30°C) to keep their properties intact.

 

 

 

Tips

Powders of dry vegetable extracts can be used in such formulations to bring specific activity.

 

Sample Recipe : Sand rose Liquid Makeup

 

Ingredients

Method

Composition

Function

% (w/w)


Phase A

Mineral oil

Emollient

6,0

Stearic acid

Emulsifier

2,2

Glyceryl stearate

Emulsifier

1,8

Lanolin alcohol

Emollient

3.0

Cetearyl isononanoate

Emollient

1,0

Isostearic acid

Emulsifier

0,5

Phase B

Cellulose gum

Thickener

0.2

 

Phase A  : Heat components to 80°C until completely uniform.

Phase B : Disperse gums into water under intensive stirring until complete dispersion, then add propylene glycol and TEA. Heat phase B to the same temperature as phase A while mixing gently. Pulverize phase C and add to phase B under moderate stirring until it is homogeneous. Then add phase A to (B+C) under intensive stirring. Maintain gentle agitation while it is being cooled until 40-30°C. Add preservative. Mix gently until it is completely cooled.

Properties

Texture: creamy oil/ water emulsion, color: beige

 

 

 

 

 

 

EYE MAKE-UP REMOVER FORMULATION

 Eye make-up remover formulation requires specific precautions. Indeed eyes and eye contours are particularly sensitive to irritations. There are tipically two types of eye make-up removers:

  • Cleansing milks based on fluid oil/water emulsions

  • Cleansing waters which are formulated in the form of an aqueous solution into which ultra-mild surfactants are dispersed.

Required qualities:

  • Perfect tolerance, non-irritant for the cornea

  • Sufficient cleansing power to remove eye makeup without insisting too much

  • Pleasant or neutral odor

  • Non-greasy

  • Non-tacky

 

 Typical Ingredients (cleansing water)

 

 Usual Method

Must Use

 

Mild surfactants/ cleansers

1-5 %

Deionized Water

Q.S.*


Usual

 

Humectants

3-30%

Emollients

1-5 %

PH Buffers

Q.S. proper pH

Preservatives

0-0,02 %


Optional

 

Surfactants/ solubilizers

0-1 %

Perfume

0,5-1 %

Active agents

Q.S.

Colouring agents

Q.S.

Floral water

1-5 %

Disperse all hydrophilic ingredients in water under slow stirring;some surfactants should be dispersed in hot water (40°C°). Oil-soluble ingredients like perfume and some kinds of preservatives should be added in the aqueous solution by pre-mixing them with a small amount of solubilizers/ surfactants, in order to obtain homogeneity and clarity. Adjust the pH of the solution.

 

 

Tips

What are the two main requirements to be respected in order to prevent the irritations?

  • pH of product must be equal to pH of tears. pH of tears is slightly alkaline:7.4 (7.0-7.8). So, product should contain agents for establishing the same pH as tears

  • Isotonicity : Products should contain tonicity agents to establish isotonicity with tears (saline concentration of product should be equal to saline concentration of tears)

 

Sample Recipe: Mild eye make up remover

 

Ingredients

Method

Composition

Function

% (w/w)


Phase A

Deionized water

 

Q.S.

Polyquaternium-10

Active/ conditioning agent

0.02

PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate

Mild surfactant/ emollient

1.70

PEG-120 methyl glucose sesquistearate

Mild surfactant

1.50

 

Phase A  : Disperse the polyquaternium in the water. Heat the mixture to 45°C to disperse PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate and PEG-120 methyl glucose sesquistearate. Remove from heat and add the remaining ingredients. Adjust the pH to 7,4 with the TEA.

Properties

Clear solution, mildness, pH = 7,4

 

 

 

 

 

 

FORMULATION BASICS: LIPSTICKS

 

We're tracking the origin of lip coloration within the high antiquity. Egyptian women used to apply on their lips some dyes based on red blood stone or henna. However the origin of the lipstick such as we know it today begins within the end of the XIXth century. At this time, actresses used to use mixtures of beeswax, butter, vine grape extracts or other kinds of natural dyes to be applied on their lips. Synthetic dyes discovery at the beginning of the XXth century allowed for a considerable pallet of coloring nuances as well as the emancipation of the lipstick.

Required qualities :

  • Consistency must be stable whatever the variations in temperature

  • Must be applied easily on lips

  • Must leave a mark as soon as lightly applied

  • Musn't break during the application

  • Uniformity of the film

  • Creaminess and slip are needed, without greasiness

  • Sufficient adhesion is required

  • Musn't leave marks when wiped

  • Easy to remove

  • Pleasant taste and odour

  • Non-irritant, non-allergenic

 

 Typical Ingredients

 

 Usual Method

Must Use

 

Consistency factors/ Waxes

20-55%

Emollients (liquid)

25-70%

Pigments (color)

0.5-10%


Usual

 

Thickeners/ stabilizers

0-1%

Preservatives

0-1 %

Antioxidants

0.05-1%

Pigments (special effects)

5-25%


Optional

 

Sunscreens/ UV filters

0-2%

Fragrances/ Flavoring agents

0-1%

Active agents

0-1%

Waxes and emollients are mixed and melted until 80°C. Pigments may often have to be premixed separately in liquid emollients mixture. Premixed pigments dispersions should preferably be used, otherwise pigment dispersion must be as homogeneous as possible. The mixture can be added to the first hot phase or once the mix has cooled. Then pour the warm mixture (temperature must be 10°C above its melting point) into the appropriate moulds. Moulds must be placed into the refrigerator.

 

 

 Tips

How to obtain the wanted mattifying/ shining effect in your lipstick?

Mixing the correct amount of pigments every time and getting the desired color and effect is an art of its own. Pigments particles size and nature is varied in order to obtain more shine or more matt effect. The more the distribution is large, the more the mattifying effect is high. Mattifying effect is associated with adhesion (long-lasting). Cosmeticians would like to obtain lipsticks which join the brilliance with the long-lasting effect to satisfy consumers. These two properties are contradictory.

 

Sample Recipe : Purple fresh kiss

 

Ingredients

Method

Composition

Function

% (w/w)


Phase A

Beeswax

Consistency factor/ Wax

6

Carnauba Wax

Consistency factor/ Wax

3

Candelilla Wax

Consistency factor/ Wax

7

Ozokerite

Consistency factor/ Wax

4

Polyisobutene

Emollient (liquid)

30

 

Phase A  : Components are mixed and heated into a glass beaker to 70°C. Add Phase B components while stirring gently after have removed Phase A from heat until the mix is homogeneous. Then pour the liquid mixture into chosen molds.

 

 

 

 

 

MASCARA FORMULATION  

A Perfect Look for Every Lash

 

Mascaras are used to enhance the eyelashes. They were once prepared with oil and lamp-black. There are two main types of mascara formulation:

  • water-based mascaras, known as "cream mascaras," which are in the form of an oil/water emulsion

  • anhydrous mascaras, known as "waterproof mascaras", which are formulated in the form of a dispersion of waxes in non-aqueous solvents.

Required qualities

  • Proper creaminess and slip are needed, without greasiness

  • Easy application

  • Consistency must be stable whatever the variations in temperature

  • Uniformity

  • Filmogenic

  • Covering power

  • No build-up

  • Sufficient adhesion is required

  • Fast drying after application but musn't dry in the container

  • Water-resistant

  • Easy to remove

  • Non allergenic, non-irritant

 

 Typical Ingredients

 

 Usual Method

Must Use

 

Deionized Water

Q.S.*

Emulsifiers

3-10 %

Consistency factors/ Waxes

7-20 %

Emollients (liquid)

25-70%

Pigments (color)

0.5-10%


Usual

 

Thickeners/ stabilizers

0-1%

Preservatives

0-1 %

Adhesion promoters/ Film formers(resins)

2-8%


Optional

 

Water-resistant agents

0-1%

Pigments (special effects)

0-1%

Fragrances

0-1%

Active agents

0-1%

Waxes and emollients are mixed and melted until 80°C. Pigments have to be added and dispersed in this oily mixture. Hydrophilic thickeners like gums or synthetic polymers are dispersed in hot water. Some of them require neutralization. This second phase is heated and combined with the oily phase to form the emulsion.

 

 

 

 

 

 Tips

How to obtain light mascaras with water-resistant effect?

Some water-based mascaras may also have a waterproof effect. A large amount of latex should be added to the oil/water emulsion. It should be noted however that considering the low solids content, this type of mascaras is characterized by a weaker makeup power than anhydrous mascaras.

 

Sample Recipe : Natural look mascara

 

Ingredients

Method

Composition

Function

% (w/w)


Phase A

Water

 

Q.S.

Hydroethylcellulose

Thickener

0.50

Triethanolamine

PH Buffer/ Neutralizer

2.00

Butylene glycol

Humectant

8.00

Phase B

Iron oxides (CI 77499)

Pigment

10.0

Phase C

Glyceryl stearate

Emulsifier

2.50

 

Phase A  : Add slowly hydroxyethylcellulose in warm water (40°C). Mix until uniformly dispersed. Add the triethanolamine, mix until the gel is homogeneous, and add butylene glycol. Mixture has to be heated until 75°C in order to be combined with Part C. Mix all the ingredients of Part C and melt to 75-80°C. Then add the pigments (Part B) to C and mix until the pigments are completely wetted and uniform. Combine with part A to form the emulsion. Continue mixing (slowly) and begin cooling. Add dimethicone, polymer and preservative. Continue cooling to room temperature.

 

 

 

 

 

 

BASICS: NAIL POLISH FORMULATION

 

Nail polishes are preparations whose main function is to color and enhance aesthetics of both hands and feet, giving them a more attractive aspect. Nail polish basically consists of pigments suspended in a volatile solvent to which film formers have been added.

Required qualities :

  • Must have an important adhesive power

  • Shining film

  • Easy application, easy spreadibility

  • Homogeneity

  • Fast drying

  • High covering power

  • Plasticity and flexibility to prevent cracks

  • Hardness

 

 Typical Ingredients

 

 Usual Method

Must Use

 

Film former (primary)

10-20%

Film former/ resin (secondary)

2-10%

Pigments

1-5%

Plasticizers

3-10%

Solvents

30-50%

Diluents

5-15%

Thixotropic agents

0-1%


Usual

 

UV filters

0-0.1%

Preservatives

0.1-1%

Antioxidants

0-0.1%

Pigments (special effects)

1-5%


Optional

 

Fragrance

0-1%

Active agents

0-1%

Thixotropic agents are dispersed in part of the solvents and mixture is added with the diluents and the others components. Pre-wet the pigments by making a 1:1 or 1:2 premix in carrier (oils or solvents) under slow stirring conditions. Controlled speed stirrers with a paddle or propeller type agitator blades are recommended to disperse pigments.

 

 

 

 Special effects

How to obtain special effects?

You can vary effects in nail polish through the addition of both organic colors and pigments. Pigments must be maintained within the preparation with suspending agents, such as stearalkonium hectorite. Specialty additives may also be added in order to create special effects: sparkling, shimmering, frosted, metallescent... Nylon or rayon fibers can be added for nail-strengthening purposes. Aluminum is widely used in nail polishes. It can add some sparkle and flop effects when using the larger particle sizes.

 

Sample Recipe

 

Ingredients

Method

Composition

Function

% (w/w)


Phase A

Stearylalkonium Bentonite

Thixotropic agent

0.90

n-Butyl Acetate

Solvent

40.0

Isopropyl Alcohol

Diluent

8.4

Ethyl Acetate

Solvent

18.0

 

Phase A  : 1. Disperse the stearalkonium bentonite in butyl acetate under intensive stirring and add isopropyl alcohol. Add the others solvents, plasticizers and film formers to the mixture.
Add the Phase B by slow stirring and mix slowly until the mixture is homogeneous.

 

 

 

 

 

SHAMPOO FORMULATION


A shampoo is a colloidal dispersion of various surfactants in water. Base components of a classical shampoo are cleansing agents, thickeners and water. Most of the time additives and adjuvants are added to the formula in order to help cleansing, enhance aesthetics properties, foaming or make hair shine. Indeed, beauty brought by the product is as important as cleanliness: As long as it is an hygiene product, a shampoo has to maintain a pleasant feel of the hair. Moreover, in the mind of many consumers cleanliness is often associated with foam quantity...So...Shampoos have to foam!

Required qualities:

  • Cleansing properties without eliminating all surface lipids

  • Foaming properties

  • Make hair shine and soft

  • Make hair easy to comb

  • Antistatic

  • Pleasant odor

  • Non-irritant, non-stinging

 

 Typical Ingredients

 

 Usual Method

Must Use

 

Surfactants

15-30%

Foam Stabilizers

1-4 %

Thickener

0-5%

Deionized Water

Q.S.


Usual

 

Preservatives

0,1-1 %

Humectants

1-5 %

PH Buffers

Q.S. neutral pH

Chelating Agents

0-0,02 %


Optional

 

Pearlescing/ opacifying agents

0,2-2%

Perfume

0,5-1 %

Active agents

0-2%

Colouring agents

Q.S.

Conditioning agents

Q.S. desired effect

UV Filter

0.01-0.1%

Disperse hydrophilic thickener(s) in water under intensive stirring, until a homogeneous gel is formed. Then add the surfactants and the other ingredients and mix gently until the product becomes homogeneous. Oil-soluble ingredients (some preservatives, perfume..) should be added by pre-mixing them with a small amount of surfactants.

 

 

 

 Tips

How to significantly reduce the overall irritation of your mixture?

By increasing the betaïne surfactants %. When these ones are combined with fatty alcohol sulfates, they form large anionic-cationic complex which lowers irritation.

Part of anionic surfactants can also be replaced by non-ionic surfactants like alkylpolyglucosides.

 

 

Sample Recipe: Clear shampoo

- TOP -

Ingredients

Method

Composition

Function

% (w/w)


Phase A

Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Thickener

1.20

Propylene glycol

Humectant

6.00

NaOH (18%)

Neutralizer/PH Buffer

0.40

Sodium laureth sulfate (28% active matter)

Surfactant (primary)

30.00

Propylene glycol, Diazolidinyl urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben

Preservative

1.00

Deionized Water

Diluent

Q.S.

 

Phase A  : Heat Water (40°C), disperse thickener under intensive stirring. Reduce mixing speed after polymer is dispersed. Then add propylene glycol and NaOH solution. Mix until homogeneity. Add other ingredients of Part A in order.

Mix Phase B ingredients in hot water (30-40°C) and add into Phase A. Add other ingredients in order. Mix until it is uniform.

Properties

Clear, viscous gel, pH 6.5, viscosity = 5500-6500 cP

 

 

 

 

How to Make Your Own Lip Gloss

 

You can learn how to make Cranberry lip gloss with vitamin E oil or Fruity lip gloss made with Kool-Aid. Start here and let your imagination lead you to a lip gloss you'll love.

Make Cranberry Lip Gloss
1 tablespoon sweet almond oil
10 fresh cranberries
1 teaspoon honey
1 drop of vitamin E oil

Mix all the ingredients together in a microwave-safe bowl.
Microwave for a couple of minutes or until the mixture just begins to boil.
(Bowl may also be heated in a pan of water on a stovetop).
Stir well and gently crush the berries.
Cool mixture for five minutes and then strain through a fine sieve to remove all the fruit pieces. Stir again and set aside to cool completely.
When cool, transfer into a small portable plastic container or tin.



Honey Balm Lip Gloss
3 oz. Almond Oil
2 Teaspoons Honey
1/2 oz. Beeswax or Beeswax Pellets
1 Vitamin E Capsule (as a preservative)
1-4 Drops Essential Oil


Aloe Vera Lip Gloss
1 tsp aloe vera gel
1/2 tsp coconut oil
1 tsp petroleum jelly

Mix the ingredients in a glass bowl, and microwave for 1 - 2 minutes.
Pour into container.


Fruity Lip Gloss --Made with Kool-Aid!

2 tbsp. solid shortening
1 tbsp. fruit-flavored powdered drink mix (Kool-Aid)
35 mm plastic film container

Mix shortening and drink mix together in a small microwave-safe container until smooth.
Place container in the microwave on high for 30 seconds until mixture becomes a liquid.
Pour the mixture into a plastic film container or any other type of small airtight container.
Place the fruity lip gloss mixture in the refrigerator for 20 to 30 minutes or until firm

How to Make Your Own Skin Care Products

There's no need to spend lots of money on manufactured skin care products. Check out these easy and gentle recipes for facial hair bleach, a skin food cream, and a tissue-toning cream.

Facial Hair Bleach

This effective cream hair bleach is both inexpensive and easy to prepare.

Equipment:

  • Measuring spoons

  • Mixing bowl

  • Mixing spoon

Ingredients:

  • Hydrogen peroxide (3 percent solution)

  • Ammonia

  • White henna

Yield: Enough for one application

Measure 2 tablespoons of 3 percent solution hydrogen peroxide into a mixing bowl; make sure the peroxide is fresh and at full strength. Add 10 drops of ammonia and stir in enough white henna to produce a smooth paste, not too thick or too runny.

Apply the bleach to the hair and leave it on for about 15 minutes, or until the desired shade is achieved. Rinse off the bleach thoroughly. Complete the treatment by washing thoroughly.

 

Skin Food Cream

If you want to replenish your skin's beneficial oils and supply it with nutrients, there's no need to buy expensive cosmetics. This gentle cream is as rich as they come.

Equipment:

  • Measuring spoons

  • Double boiler

  • Mixing spoon

  • Measuring cup

  • Mixing bowl

  • Wire whisk or egg beater

  • Small jar with cover

Ingredients:

  • Beeswax

  • Coconut oil

  • Anhydrous lanolin

  • Almond oil or heavy mineral oil

  • Tincture of benzoin

  • Orange flower water

Note: Buy the ingredients at a pharmacy.

Yield: About 51/2 ounces

Melt 1/2 ounce -- about 1 tablespoon -- of beeswax in a double boiler; add 2 tablespoons of coconut oil and 1 ounce (2 tablespoons) of anhydrous lanolin, and stir to blend thoroughly. Stir in 2 ounces (1/4 cup) of almond oil or heavy mineral oil, 2 or 3 drops of tincture of benzoin, and 1 ounce (2 tablespoons) of orange flower water.

Caution: Almond oil vapors are toxic.

Pour the mixture into a mixing bowl and beat it with a wire whisk or an egg beater until it's creamy. Spoon the cream into a small jar and cover it tightly.

To use, rub the cream into the skin and massage vigorously.

Tissue-Toning Cream

Tissue-toning creams add moisture to dry skin and improve its texture. This cream preparation is easy and inexpensive to make.

Equipment:

·         Double boiler

·         Measuring cup

·         Measuring spoons

·         Two small saucepans

·         Mixing spoon

·         Pint jar with cover

Ingredients:

  • Beeswax

  • Anhydrous lanolin

  • Almond oil or heavy mineral oil

  • Witch hazel

  • Rose water

  • Borax

Note: You can buy these ingredients at a pharmacy.

Yield: About 10 ounces

Melt 1 ounce of beeswax -- about 2 tablespoons -- in the top of a double boiler; add 1/4 cup (2 ounces) of anhydrous lanolin. Warm 5 ounces of almond oil or heavy mineral oil in a small saucepan and add it to the lanolin-and-wax mixture; stir to blend.

Caution: Almond oil vapors are toxic.

In another small pan, heat 2 tablespoons of witch hazel and 2 tablespoons of rose water; dissolve a pinch of borax in this solution. Add to the lanolin-and-wax mixture and mix thoroughly. Pour the mixture into a pint jar and cover it tightly.

Apply the cream sparingly and rub it into your skin gently.

Don't forget your hands and feet when you're pampering yourself. See the next page to learn how to make your own hand and nail care products using easy instructions and ingredients available at the grocery and pharmacy.

 

 

How to Make Your Own Hand and Nail Care Products

Keeping your hands beautiful can take lots of work. But you don't necessarily need­ to invest in a supply of manufactured cosmetics. Instead, you can make your own products at home and get beautiful results.

Fingernail Hardener

Nails, like hair, often need conditioning. Use this simple nail hardener recipe to keep your nails from splitting or cracking.

Equipment:

  • Measuring cup

  • Measuring spoons

  • Mixing spoon

  • Small jar with cover

Ingredients:

  • Water

  • Witch hazel

  • Glycerin

  • Green food coloring

  • Alum

Yield: About 1/2 cup

To 1/4 cup of water in a measuring cup, add 1/4 cup of witch hazel, 2 tablespoons of glycerin, and a drop of green food coloring -- the coloring is just for identification. Add 2 teaspoons of alum and stir to mix well. Pour into a small jar and cover tightly.

Apply the solution nightly for several nights; dip your nails into the solution and let them dry. Repeat as necessary until your nails are hard, as desired. If you wear nail polish, remove the polish and don't reapply it until your nails have hardened as desired.

 

Heavy-Duty Hand Lotion

For winter-cracked hands, try this lotion. Glycerin and rose water are a classic combination, and this version has the added benefit of witch hazel.

Equipment:

  • Mixing bowl

  • Measuring cup

  • Measuring spoons

  • Mixing spoon

  • Small jar with cover

Ingredients:

·         Glycerin

·         Bay rum

·         Witch hazel

·         Rose water

Note: Buy the ingredients at a pharmacy.

Yield: About 1/2 cup

Measure 1/4 cup of glycerin into a mixing bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of bay rum, 2 tablespoons of witch hazel, and 2 tablespoons of rose water; stir the mixture thoroughly. Pour into a small jar and cover tightly.

Shake the lotion thoroughly before using.

 

Nail Bleach

Blotchy or mottled fingernails aren't pretty, but they're easily dealt with. Mix this fragrant lotion to correct the problem.

Equipment:

  • Measuring spoons

  • Measuring cup

  • Funnel

  • 8-ounce bottle with cap

Ingredients:

  • Glycerin

  • Hydrogen peroxide (3 percent solution)

  • Orange flower water

Note: Buy glycerin and orange flower water at a pharmacy.

Yield: 8 ounces

Measure 2 tablespoons of glycerin and 5 ounces -- 5/8 cup -- of 3 percent solution hydrogen peroxide into an 8-ounce bottle; fill the bottle with orange flower water. Cap the bottle and shake it well.

To use the bleach, soak your nails in this mixture for about 15 minutes. Repeat as needed.

 

Nail Softener

If your nails are too tough to cut or shape, try this effective softener.

Equipment:

·         Double boiler

·         Measuring spoons

·         Mixing spoon

·         Small jar with cover

 

Ingredients:

  • Hydrous lanolin (containing water)

  • Soap flakes

  • Glycerin

  • Vegetable oil

  • Perfume or cologne

Note: Buy lanolin at a pharmacy.

Yield: About 3 ounces

Empty a 2-ounce tube of hydrous lanolin into the top of a double boiler and melt the lanolin over low heat. Add 1 tablespoon of soap flakes, 2 teaspoons of glycerin, and 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil; stir well. If desired, add a few drops of your favorite perfume or cologne.

Remove the mixture from the heat and stir to dissolve the soap flakes. Pour the mixture into a small jar and cover it tightly.

Apply the softener to the nails daily, until the nails are as soft as desired.

Nail Whitener

There's no need to go out and buy expensive nail whiteners; it's easy to make your own:

Equipment:

  • Double boiler

  • Measuring spoons

  • Mixing spoon

  • Small jar with cover

Ingredients:

  • Hydrous lanolin (containing water)

  • Zinc oxide powder

  • Talcum powder

  • Almond oil or heavy mineral oil

  • Glycerin

Note: Buy the ingredients at a pharmacy.

Yield: About 41/2 ounces

Empty a 2-ounce tube of hydrous lanolin into the top of a double boiler and melt the lanolin over low heat. Add 2 tablespoons of zinc oxide powder and 2 tablespoons of talcum powder and stir the mixture to form a smooth, creamy paste. Then add 1/4 teaspoon of glycerin and 1 tablespoon of almond oil or heavy mineral oil, mixing them thoroughly into the paste.

Caution: Almond oil vapors are toxic.

Transfer the paste to a small jar and cover it tightly.

To use the whitener, apply the paste under the nails with an orange stick.

To complete your suite of homemade beauty products, see the next page for instructions on making your own hygiene products like deodorant and toothpaste.

How to Make Your Own Facial Care Products

­Put your best face forward with these natural facial care products you can make yourself. For some of the recipes, you'll already have all the ingredients in your kitchen. For others, you can find everything at the grocery store or your pharmacy.

­Natural Facial Masks

To restore moisture and deep-cleanse your face, use a facial mask regularly. These home-blended masks are designed for the three common skin types.

Normal-Skin Mask: Use this mask for normal or combination skin types.

Equipment:

·         Small bowl

·         Wire whisk

·         Measuring spoons

 

Ingredients:

  • Egg

  • Honey

  • Brewers' yeast or cider vinegar

Yield: Enough for one application

Beat an egg in a small bowl, using a wire whisk to blend yolk and white thoroughly. Add 1 teaspoon of honey and 1/4 teaspoon of brewers' yeast -- or, if you don't have brewers' yeast, 1 tablespoon of cider vinegar. Whisk again to blend. Apply the mask to your face, being careful not to get it in your eyes or on your hair. Let it dry for about 20 minutes, and then rinse it off thoroughly with warm water. Splash your face with cool water and blot it dry.

Dry-Skin Mask:

Enjoy the scent of this natural mask while moisturizing your skin.

Equipment:

·         Paring knife

·         Blender

·         Measuring spoons

Ingredients:

  • Banana

  • Honey

Yield: Enough for one application

Wash a banana thoroughly. Slice the banana and half of its peel into the container of a blender; add 1 tablespoon of honey and blend to a liquid. Apply the mask to your face, being careful not to get it in your eyes or on your hair. Let it dry for about 20 minutes, and then rinse it off thoroughly with warm water. Splash your face with cool water and blot it dry.

Oily-Skin Mask: Get a deep cleansing with this fresh, natural mask recipe.

 

Equipment:

  • Paring knife

  • Blender

  • Measuring spoons

Ingredients:

  • Cucumber

  • Yogurt

Yield: Enough for one application

Wash a cucumber thoroughly. If the cucumber skin is waxed, remove it; if possible, however, leave the cucumber unpeeled. Slice the cucumber into the container of a blender; add 1 tablespoon of plain unsweetened yogurt and blend to a liquid. Apply the mask to your face, being careful not to get it in your eyes or on your hair. Let it dry for about 20 minutes, and then rinse it off thoroughly with warm water. Splash your face with cool water and blot it dry.

Clay Facial Mask

To absorb dirt, oil, and impurities from your skin, mix this soothing clay.

Equipment:

  • Measuring spoons

  • Double boiler

  • Mixing spoon

  • Measuring cup

Ingredients:

  • Beeswax

  • Anhydrous lanolin

  • Borax

  • Rose water or water

  • Fuller's earth

Note: Buy the ingredients at a pharmacy.

Yield: Enough for one application

Measure 1/4 ounce of beeswax -- about 11/2 teaspoons -- into the top of a double boiler; add 2 ounces (4 tablespoons) of anhydrous lanolin. Stir to blend. Measure 1/2 cup of rose water or plain water; add 1 tablespoon of borax and stir to dissolve. Slowly pour the borax-water mixture into the melted wax and lanolin, stirring constantly until the water is completely absorbed. Remove the mixture from the heat.

Add 1/2 pound of fuller's earth to the blended wax and water, stirring to a smooth paste. Let the mixture cool before using it.

Apply the facial pack liberally to your skin, being careful not to get it in your eyes or on your hair. Let it dry completely, about 1/2 hour, and rinse with warm water to remove all traces of the clay. Finally, splash your face with cool water and blot it dry.

Skin Softener

Many beauty experts recommend cucumbers as an effective skin softener and nourisher. This softener is especially good for oily skin.

Equipment:

  • Sharp knife

  • Blender

  • Spatula

  • Saucepan

  • Measuring cup

  • Mixing spoon

  • Two quart jars with covers

  • Funnel

  • Coffee filter

Ingredients:

  • Fresh cucumbers

  • Rubbing alcohol

  • Benzoic acid (Buy benzoic acid at a pharmacy.)

Yield: About 21/2 to 3 cups

Thinly peel 2 or 3 large cucumbers and cut them into small pieces; place in a blender and puree to a fine pulp. Turn the pulp into a saucepan and heat to boiling; let cool. Stir in 1 pint of rubbing alcohol and 1/4 cup of benzoic acid; this keeps the cucumber juice from spoiling. Stir to mix thoroughly.

Pour the mixture into a quart jar and cover it tightly; refrigerate it for 2 weeks. Strain it into a clean jar through a funnel lined with a coffee filter; cover tightly. Apply to skin as desired.

Lip Cream

If you spend a lot of time outside, you've probably suffered from dry, chapped lips due to cold, sun, or wind. This simple cream both soothes and heals.

Equipment:

·         Measuring spoons

·         Double boiler

·         Mixing spoon

·         Small jar with cover

Ingredients:

·         Beeswax

·         Castor oil

·         Anhydrous lanolin

·         Spirits of camphor

Note: Buy the ingredients at a pharmacy.

Yield: About 21/2 ounces

Melt 1 ounce -- about 2 tablespoons -- of beeswax in a double boiler; add 2 tablespoons of castor oil and 1 tablespoon of anhydrous lanolin, and stir thoroughly. Remove from heat and let the mixture cool. When cool, add 1 teaspoon of spirits of camphor and mix thoroughly. Spoon the mixture into a small jar and cover it tightly.

Apply the cream to the lips as needed.

Skin Whiteners

Honest-to-goodness freckles are a permanent fixture, but discolorations and dark spots are easy to remove.

Lemon-Vinegar Skin Whitener: This recipe is simple super to make and to use.

Equipment:

  • Sharp knife

  • Blender

  • Measuring cup

  • Two quart jars with covers

  • Funnel

  • Coffee filter

Ingredients:

  • Lemons

  • Wine vinegar

  • Rubbing alcohol

  • Water

  • Perfume

Yield: About 11/2 pints

Cut 2 or 3 lemons into small pieces. Liquefy the pieces of lemon in a blender. Add a pint of inexpensive wine vinegar, 1/2 cup of rubbing alcohol, and 1/2 cup of water, and blend for a few seconds.

Pour the mixture into a quart jar and cover; refrigerate it for 3 days. Add a few drops of your favorite perfume until the mixture smells good to you. Strain the mixture into another quart jar through a funnel lined with a clean coffee filter, and cover it tightly.

To use the skin whitener, spread it between two pieces of muslin. Set this poultice on your skin for as long as convenient, preferably overnight.

Natural Face Bleach: This bleach is good for repeated use and gentle enough for the delicate skin on your face.

Equipment:

  • Measuring cup

  • Mixing bowl

  • Mixing spoon

  • Measuring spoons

  • Pint jar with cover

Ingredients:

  • Colloidal oatmeal

  • Hydrogen peroxide (3 percent solution)

  • Lemon juice

  • Tincture of benzoin

Yield: About 11/2 cups

Measure 1/4 cup of colloidal oatmeal into a mixing bowl. Add 1/2 cup of 3 percent solution hydrogen peroxide and stir well; be sure the peroxide is fresh and at full strength. Add 1/2 cup of lemon juice and 1/4 teaspoon of tincture of benzoin to the mixture. Stir to blend the ingredients thoroughly. Pour the mixture into a pint jar and cover it tightly.

Apply the bleach weekly; let it dry before rinsing.

If you specifically want to focus on preventing, eliminating, and hiding wrinkles, see the next page for some non-surgical solutions.

 

 

How to Make Perfume

 

Whether it’s for personal or family purposes, marketing
purposes or intended as a gift for some friends or family,
perfume making is in fact an easy task that you can do by
yourself or with others. Creating something personal, of good
taste and really useful such as perfume is a truly great thing,
not only because it teaches you a couple of new things, but also because it’s bound to boost your confidence, not to mention maybe the most important aspect… having fun.

If you try to google your way to some perfume making knowledge, you’ll notice you have a lot to choose from, just because there are plenty of ways and different recipes to try. The most important thing is for you to know what you’d like to obtain:

1. What type of perfume would you like to make? (eau de
cologne, perfume concentrates, maybe even after-shaves or
whatever crosses your mind)

2. What would you like the perfume to smell like? (soft /
strong smell, sweet / manly odor / unisex, long lasting or not,
and so on and so forth)

Depending on your answers to the previous questions, you should
make out a list of ingredients. When compiling this list, you should have in mind the characteristics of the ingredients
you’d like to add to your recipe. If you’ve already got a recipe to follow, that means you won’t bother experimenting and
giving much thought to the ingredients you should add, maybe slightly adjust the quantities to obtain a more personalized
perfume, but if you haven’t got your ingredients list yet, here are a couple of things you should know.

The first rule of perfume making is that you should experiment as much as you can. It’s a fact that some of the greatest
perfumes were created because somebody said something like… “and what if I put these two together?”. Perfume making an art
and that’s why imagination and a great sense of smell can overcome a lack of experience or knowledge.

The second most important thing is that there are 3 key ingredients to a perfume recipe: essential oils (extracts from
various plants, organic or non-organic, that combined, give you the smell of your perfume), pure grain alcohol and water.

Another thing you should know about oils, plant extracts is that there are 3 different types of oils which will ultimately
influence the smell of your perfume in time. The base notes will be the scent that will stay the longest on your skin and
that is why it is usually added first in the mixture. The middle notes will also influence the smell of the perfume for a
pretty long time, although not as long as the base notes, while the top notes will give the perfume its specific scent when
just applied. The top notes will be added to the mixture after the middle notes and may be followed by some other substance to
bridge the scents. 

It is very important that you mix the extracts in the given order and that you use a sufficient quantity of each type,
usually the same for all three.

Last, but not least, here’s a list of the most easily found oils that may lead you to your dream perfume:

1. Base notes – sandal wood, vanilla, cinnamon, mosses, lichens, ferns;

2. Middle notes – lemongrass, geranium, neroli, ylang-ylang;

3. Top notes – orchid, rose, bergamot, lavender, lemon, lime.

 

HERBAL PRODUCT

 

 

Beauty products don't need to be costly. You can achieve professional results at home!

HERBAL SHAMPOO

The easiest way to make herbal shampoo is to start with a gentle base of commercial shampoo and then add you own herbal infusions and a few drops of essential oil to scent your hair. Baby shampoo is a good mild soap to use in adding herbals. You will need to add one part shampoo to five parts herbal infusion. There are a large variety of herbs you can use but you need to study the properties of each herb in order to use them safely for your intended purpose. These are some of the herbs you can use and their properties. Cloves and Ground Walnut shells will highlight dark hair colors. Lavender is good for oily hair. Parsley improves the shine of your hair and helps prevent dandruff as does Rosemary. Rosemary and ground Walnut shells can also darken your hair. Lime flowers will soften and conditions your hair as does Thyme. Nasturtium helps your hair to gain healthy growth and Sage will not only color dark and gray hair as well as conditions it.

HONEY HAIR RINSE

1 teaspoon of honey

4 cups of warm water

1 drop of your favorite essential oil or perfume

Wash hair as you would normally. After you are done pat dry and add this mixture to your hair slowly covering all of your hair strands. Let your hair air dry for a shiny and soft feeling.

BATH SALTS

Mix:

6 Cups Epsom Salts

6 Cups Sea Salt

2/3 Cups baking soda

A few drops of Essential Oils and Food Coloring is optional

To make a sandal wood musk bath salt use 14 drops of sandal wood essential oil and 10 drops vanilla musk oil with 6 drops of chamomile.

A delightful citrus bath can be made using 10 drops bergamot, 10 drops orange, 5 drops grapefruit, 2 drops lemon and 5 drops honeydew.

Whichever kind of bath salts you are making you will want to mix the salts and baking soda in a bowl very well. Divide the mixture up between several small bowls to create a fun layered look in your container. For best results mix your coloring and essential oil separately to each bowl. After letting the bowls sit for 24 hours you can add a scoopful to your container. You can make Vanilla, Strawberry and Orange Bath salts and layer them alternately in a sundae dish for a fun gift idea or layer them in a glass pasta jar and tie a wooden scoop on with a piece of raffia or ribbon. Use peppermint essential oil and red and pink food-coloring to make a candy cane bath salt. You can even layer the salts in a recycled old plastic candy cane that you find candy sold in at Christmas time!

HOME-MADE FACE MASKS

To moisturize your skin and make it glow with beauty you can make many different home-made face masks that can help dry or tired skin look and feel its best.

Citrus Fruit Mask

Mix one Tablespoon Honey to two Tablespoons orange juice. Mix completely then add 1 Apple, cored, quartered and pureed till smooth with 1/2 teaspoon sage. Mix it together well and secure your hair back out of your face securely. Heat the mixture a few minutes in the microwave and smooth evenly on your face. Keep it on your face for 20 minutes and then wash clean with a warm wash cloth. This can enhance all skin types.

Cucumber Mask

Add 1/2 a Cucumber, 1 Egg white, 1/2 teaspoon Lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon Lime juice, 1 tsp Apple Mint Leaves to a food processor or blender and puree for 5 minutes until smooth. Keep the mixture in the refrigerate for 10 minutes. Apply the mixture to your face while cool and leave it on for 20 minutes. Rinse it off with hot washcloth to loosen your pores and then rinse with cool water to finish your treatment. This mask is especially good for oily skin.

Peach Tightening Mask

1 Peach, ripe, peeled, pitted

1 Egg white or 1/4 cup cornstarch

1 mint sprig

Whip the peach, egg white or cornstarch and mint leaves together in a blender until smooth. Smooth mixture evenly over your face and leave on to tighten for 20 minutes. Rinse off and pat dry.

FOOT SCRUBS

Making home-made cleansing scrubs are very easy and a great way to rejuvenate and cleanse tired and warn out feet. This mixture can also be a wonderful way to remove calluses from your feet with continued use.

1 Tablespoon of coarse, clean sand

1/4 cup light canola oil

1/4 cup liquid hand soap

1/4 cup sea salt   

1/4 cup Epsom salt

 

OATMEAL SOAP ON A ROPE

1 Cups either oatmeal or cornmeal

1 Cups soap crumbs -- (broken small pieces or hotel bar sized soap)

2 Tablespoon vegetable oil

2 Tablespoon water

Braided or twisted nylon cording

Cut a 6 inch piece of cord with a knot tied at the end of it. Take the soap and oatmeal and place in your blender. First blend and then using the pulse option, pulse until the mixture becomes fine. Add the soap and oatmeal mixture,oil and water together. Jojoba oil is a nice additive but can be expensive. Almond oil is also a wonderful option and very light but even a light commercial canola oil works great,the cheaper the better!

Roll your mixture into a long rectangle shape or ball. Use the back of a table spoon to make a indentation in the middle of the soap. Place the knot from your cord into the depression. The soap will need to dry completely at least 2-3 days.

 

 
 
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